
TUSCANY WITHOUT THE TOURISTS?
The Upper Tiber Valley (Umbria)
The Upper Tiber Valley is the homeland of great artists with a worldwide fame, such as Michelangelo Buonarroti, Piero della Francesca, Luca Pacioli, and includes the towns of Sansepolcro, Anghiari, Caprese Michelangelo, Cittą di Castello and Monterchi.
While Central Tuscany has a magic that cannot be matched with towns like Siena, Cortona, Pienza, Montepulciano, and Montalcino, you'll be sharing this magic with many tourists and woefully few Italians. Nearby, in the Upper Tiber Valley of Umbria, there awaits a magic that is different, but equally as special. Don't come to this region expecting to share your experiences with other English-speaking tourists. This is where the language heard most often is Italian and so are the tourists.
The Upper Tiber Valley is the northernmost Umbrian territory. Wedged between Tuscany and the rugged mountains of the Marches, this region has a unique cultural and social character. The people of this region have been master hunters and gatherers for centuries. Wild mushroom varieties (porcini), tartufo bianco e nero (white and black truffles), cinghiale (wild boar), coniglio (rabbit) are foods typically found on kitchen tables. The Tiber River runs through the entire length of the valley for 50 kilometers and provides the valley with great fertility. Still largely farmed with tobacco, each year sees more fields turned over to produce and feed for livestock.
There are eight leading towns in the region. The hill towns of Citerna, Montone, Monte Santa Maria Tiberina, and Pietralunga are sleepy hamlets with magnificent views with one or two good places to eat and some memorable art in their local museums and churches. Their real attractions, however, are the vistas from each town, the joy of the winding drive up to each hilltop location and searching out a place to sample the local food and wine. Cittą di Castello, Lisciano Niccone, San Giustino, and Umbertide are valley towns bustling with the energy of daily Italian culture and are the leading towns for art, culture and great restaurants.
Yes, Tuscany is magnificent, Florence and Siena are breathtakingly beautiful, Montepulciano is picturesque, Pienza is quaint, and you can spend a week tasting Brunellos in Montalcino, but have you really experienced the culture of rural Italy? Not unless you take the less traveled road into the Upper Tiber Valley.
UMBRIA, ITALYS GREEN HEART
Umbria is a region of rolling hills, wooded valleys, lakes and mountains, dotted with innumerable towns and villages dating from the Middle Ages or before, most of which have been delightfully restored in recent years, and each of which offers the visitor a range of interesting things to see and do: there are numerous historical monuments, churches and art galleries to visit, medieval quarters to stroll around where traditional craft shops nestle beside more modern architecture, in a harmonious blend of old and new that thoroughly epitomizes the spirit of the Umbria region.
TUSCANY WITHOUT THE TOURISTS?
That is how this beautiful region of central Italy is often portrayed. True, you'll find relatively few crowds of visitors in Umbria. And as in Tuscany, you'll come across many lovely medieval towns and villages atop hills clad in pine and olive trees. Yet, in terms of character and style, Umbria is gently different to its more famous neighbor. While Tuscany is bold and striking, Umbria is understated and contemplative, exuding a sense of timelessness and a wonderfully serene atmosphere.
Less than half the size of Tuscany, Umbria relishes its promotional slogan "the green heart of Italy". And that's not an overblown description: it lies in the middle of Italy. The region's lush good looks result from a generous supply of water: Lake Trasimeno lies to the west, while the Tiber and its tributaries wind through Umbria's leafy valleys and ravines.
Umbria is well endowed with parks, too, particularly the lovely Mount Subasio and Mount Cucco parks on the eastern border, which is formed by the Apennines. Quite apart from such natural good looks, Umbria, like Tuscany, offers intriguing traces of a rich past. Yet whereas Tuscany dazzles with its Renaissance art, Umbria reveals subtler treasures. Many of its old towns incorporate ancient remains of Etruscan and Roman settlements, while its art reflects an otherworldly, ethereal outlook in contrast to Tuscany's more intellectual drive. And, more pragmatically, Umbria is back on the no-frills map with new direct flights from Stansted to Perugia, its buzzing little capital, on Ryanair.
ART AND SOUL OF UMBRIA?
Artistically, spiritually and indeed emotionally, the small town of ASSISI is Umbria's crowning glory. It was here that one Giovanni di Bernardone was born in 1182. The son of a rich merchant, he was nicknamed Francesco, or Francis, because his mother was French. After spending much of his youth as a gadabout he dedicated himself to a devout life of simplicity and poverty, gained a reputation for befriending birds and other animals, and established a new monastic order. St Francis died in Assisi in 1226 at the age of 44. The day after his canonization in 1228, work began on a monastic church complex commemorating him. Ironically, given the unworldly philosophy of St Francis, the complex is huge and glorious, and was decorated by the finest 13th- and 14thcentury artists. It comprises two basilicas: the darker, lower church adorned with astonishing frescos by Simone Martini and the great master Giotto; and the bright upper church with works by Cimabue and a fine fresco cycle attributed to Giotto. A severe earthquake in 1997 caused enormous damage to the complex, yet the churches and the artworks have been painstakingly repaired and reassembled. The restoration was by no means only for art's sake: the Basilica of St Francis is one of the most-visited pilgrimage sites in Italy and tourists here join large flocks of devout travelers.
PERUGIA
is not only a glorious and picturesque jumble of Etruscan, Roman and medieval architecture, but it also contains a striking collection of art. Your first move in the capital should be to head to the National Gallery of Umbria in the lovely Palazzo dei Priori. Here you can gaze at some of Italy's finest altarpieces, not to mention works by Umbria's own most revered painters. The Umbrian capital is also a hugely rewarding town to walk around. Among its more extraordinary sights are San Pietro, a jewelry box of a medieval church coated inside with paintings and frescos. Take your pick from a wealth of choice. GUBBIO, north-east of Perugia, boasts a large Roman amphitheatre and is also considered to be one of the most finely preserved medieval towns in the whole of Italy.Compact little
CORCIANO, west of Perugia, dates from Etruscan times and is packed with Renaissance buildings within its 13th-century fortifications. Walled, traffic-free Spello has ancient, steep streets and well-conserved Roman gates.SPOLETO, further south, is glamorous and arty. It contains a Roman theatre (still in use) and a stunning 12th-century cathedral. For two weeks every summer Spoleto hosts one of Europe's most vibrant festivals. The Festival dei Due Mondi embraces the globe, sharing Italian zest with the diaspora in America and Australia. Only Italy, though, can boast mouthwatering markets of the kind that you find compressed into the centre of Spoleto.
Over to the west,
TODI also offers a summer music festival. The highlight of this town is the huge cathedral and wonderful medieval main square, Piazza del Popolo. West again, the magnificent city of Orvieto is celebrated for its (largely) 13th-century cathedral which rises spectacularly above the town - and the excellent wines that are produced in the vicinity.LOCAL MARKETS:
These markets often have the same stall holders and are listed below in case you want to go to a market on a particular day for fresh fruit and vegetables, or just the fun of the fair.
Monday - Pieve Santo Stefano
Tuesday - Sansepolcro
Wednesday - Anghiari
Thursday - Citta' di Castello
Friday - San Giustino
Saturday - Sansepolcro / Citta' di Castello
Sunday Monterchi* A significant Sunday market that is very convenient for international guests arriving on Saturday as all supermarkets and shops are closed on Sunday!
Festivals & Annual Events
FESTIVALS, SAGRE AND RELIGIOUS FESTIVALS
The Italian calendar is saturated with celebrations of one sort or another, often related to religious dates which can vary according to the year. If you accidentally come across one, do not worry about participating as they are all very public events and all are welcome. Some are quite small and very local, while others have taken on international fame such as the Palio in Siena in June and August. Below is a list of most of the major festivities in the Tiber Valley and a few larger ones from nearby and elsewhere. In many cases no exact dates can be given and they are generally over a weekend or two, so we have tried to give you an idea of what to expect during the time you are here.
MAY
GUBBIO; May 15. Festival of the Ceri. This is a must see event if at all possible Medieval Madness on a grand scale; three teams carrying large wooden candles race around the main square then up the mountain. Inspirational!
UMBERTIDE; Festival di Primavera/ Springtime, celebrating the arrival of spring.
MONTE SANTA MARIA TIBERINA; Festa dellķ Ascensione, an historic religious procession in this small, enchanting, very hill top town.
JUNE
CASTIGLION FIORENTINO; Palio dei Rioni, Third Sunday in June; Traditional horse race between the quarters of the town starting to rival Siena.
AREZZO; Giostra del Saracino; traditional bi annual equestrian competition dating back to 1677... magnificent Medieval costume procession.
ANGHIARI; La Battaglia di 1440; Celebration of the famous battle of Anghiari on June 29, 1440.
JULY
SIENA. PALIO della Madonna di Providenza; THE Palio First run!
PIEVE SANTO STEFANO; Mignano 1498, assalto al castello; Recalls the assault on the castle in 1498.
SELCI [SAN GIUSTINO]; Festa della Ranocchia; Festival of the Frog with gastronomic delicacies, music and sport.
PERUGIA: Umbria Jazz Festival for 10 days in mid July is a great event with lots of high class music and plenty of free performances worth visiting just for the atmosphere.
PLEASE CHECK THE WEB SITE www.umbriajazz.com SOME OF THE MOST IMPORTANT INTERNATIONALJAZZ PLAYERS WILL THE THERE
AUGUST
PIETRALUNGA
; Settimana del Palio- Week of festivities, folklore, music and food stalls culminating in the Palio of the axe a complicated Medieval legend!PIEVE SANTO STEFANO; Corteo storico dei Rioni; Procession of the representatives from each district for the run up to the Palio dei Lumi exhibition by flag-wavers from Castiglion Fiorentino.
CORTONA; Tuscan Sun Festival; 1-9 August 2009 - Two weeks of concerts, plus art events in classical Cortona.
THE TUSCAN FESTIVAL IS AN INTERNATIONAL ART EVENT, AMERICANS LOVE CORTONA AFTER THE "UNDER THE TUSCAN SUN" BOOK FRANCES MAYES IS ONE OF THE ART DIRECTORS THE FESTIVAL IS ALSO HELD IN NAPA AND SINGAPORE
PLEASE CHECK www.tuscansunfestival.com
SIENA; PALIO della Madonna di Providenza; THE Palio second run!
MONTONE; Rievocazione della donazione della sacra spina; Religious celebration in honor of a famous relic from the Crown of Thorns.
CORTONA; Sagra del Fungo Porcino; local Porcini mushroom gastronomic delights.
MONTEPULCIANO; Bravio delle Botti; Battle of the Wine Barrels. Roll out the barrel in this famous wine town. Food and wine all night.
SEPTEMBER
ANGHIARI; Tradizionale Festa degli Ospiti; Traditional festival of the guests, Festa di Santo Stefano.
PIEVE SANTO STEFANO; Palio dei Lumi Palio of the lamps; Historical soccer match between the districts and parade in costume.
AREZZO; Giostra del Saraceno; traditional bi annual equestrian competition dating back to 1677. Huge costumed Medieval re-enactment. Knights on horseback compete for the honor of their district.
SANSEPOLCRO; Settimana Rinascimentale del Borgo; Almost daily events leading up to the Balestra/Cross-Bow competition between traditional rivals Sansepolcro and Gubbio, on the second Sunday of September. Crossbow men from the two towns are supported by a great historical procession, musicians, and captivating exhibitions of flag waving.
CITTA' DI CASTELLO; Festival delle Nazioni; Festival of the Nations; Annual classical music Festival, themed on a particular nation, staged in a variety of interesting locations in the vicinity.
OCTOBER
CITERNA; Autumn Festival; Second Weekend in October; Excellent show of local handicrafts.
PERUGIA; EuroChocolate; The festival for Chocolate lovers celebrating the best local and international chocolate delights fairground fun.
CAPRESE MICHELANGELO; Festa della Castagna; Celebrating autumn and the delights of forest food.
ANGHIARI; Cento gusti dellAppennino; 100 tastes of the Apennines local fair featuring many local products with typical flavors from the area.
AREZZO - ALL YEAR ROUND; Fiera Antiquaria; Antiques Fair; This is perhaps the best known and best attended Antiques Market in Italy with over 500 stall holders. Held on the first Sunday of every month, and the preceding Saturday it draws visitors and exhibitors from all over Italy and abroad very interesting even if you dont buy anything.
AREZZO
Fiera Antiquaria, Antiques Fair, year round
This is perhaps the best known and best attended Antiques Market in Italy with over 500 stall holders. Held on the first Sunday of every month, and the preceding Saturday, it draws visitors and exhibitors from all over Italy and abroad very interesting even if you dont buy anything.
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For more information or to schedule your stay please contact:
Small & Elegant Hotels, International
801 Monroe NW, Suite 104
Grand Raids, MI 49503
TEL: (616) 844-6000 / FAX: (616) 844-6042
E-Mail: res@smallandeleganthotels.com